I have since tried quite a few 8" drivers in the baffle of the pipes, and it seems that my intuitive guesses have turned out to be useful ones. The Equations I found for Voigt pipes seem to match up well with my version (see right). Everyone that has heard them has been gob smacked at their performance ...without exception....They have a realism - that flesh and blood quality that is so elusive in most speakers. It's surprisingly easy to get two identical triangles from one board. Replace the side and screw it down. Nevertheless there is a degree of hornloading in lower midrange and upper bass. High sensitivity / efficiency. All five speakers use a Radio Shack 40-1044 driver, which is a 35-Watt, (70 max,) 8-inch full-range driver. long and the width of the box) and just using a staple gun to secure it. I wanted the driver to have a response difference between its resonance frequency (Fo) and its midrange sensitivity to be NO MORE than 10db. They correspond to impedance curve peaks which can be easily seen on a plot. Midrange is just great and low end is amazing - probably due to the Voigt Pipe design, a horn design married to a transmission line. The biggest problem was doppler distortion at high volume levels (~95dB) due to the excessively heavy cone. Back in the '30's that pioneer of hi-fi Mr P.Voigt designed the Voigt Pipe. Happy listening! Why? Guess you can get a better idea from this pickie. So I drilled a pilot hole, stuck in the cutting bit and proceeded to drag the router around the circle I had drawn. (Unfortunately, this approach would prevent me from buying rear-projection televisions.) Once the back and sides are screwed together, you can remove all of the clamps. I need a sub for the lower frequencies. The Voigt Pipes are significantly more efficient and the bass is almost unbelievable thunderous and follows the played tone accurate without preferring certain resonances. This is where not finally fixing the base piece into position is a great benefit for those wanting to experiment with different terminations. After the glue sets, I remove the screws and plug the holes with light-weight spackling. Use it instead of wood filler ... it's faster, smoother, can be sanded out if you screw it up and re-done. They sounded better when I heard them with a preamp on my system. Mechanical failure can occur when the drive signal demands movement from the speaker coil that exceeds the design … You'll also find several careful explanations, some with copius photographs, of Voight-Pipe builds. At first, I stripped the wood using a handheld circular saw. Spray the entire cabinet with primer. Place that piece of scrap you saved from cutting the back panel :-) between the sides near the bottom. We can provide you with comprehensive Subwoofer Box Design Software for creating a high performance bass box. I pay littleattention to 2-way systems since they cannot reproduce the full spectrum at adequatevolume levels. Derek Walton has a set of plans with internal dimensions. Check revisited edition of TQWT on Lowther Holland page, where another driver is added to cure uneven response of a single driver TQWT. That includes a pressure screw from the rear of the cabinet against the backside of the driver magnet. This is of course true because I used the RS drivers that have pressed steel bodies. Surfing the inter-net for speaker projects, I looked at many but shied away from complicated vented boxes, transmission lines and crossovers with associated math. I'm still inconclusive about the center channel. The results are: It's over-damped! Then after everything is finalized I will use a direct solder connection to the driver terminals. They don't have great high frequency extension, but I didn't mind because I wanted to use my plasma tweeters for the highs. I would not do it again as the L-Pad accomplishes the same thing and it isn't as chincy. I ended up having to bend one side of the hurricane nut up 90 degrees to get the driver into the hole. I used ~1.2 lbs of stuffing per pipe in the upper half. The Voigt pipe is a type of loudspeaker enclosure that embodies a combination of transmission line, ported enclosure and horn characteristics. I think that this produces the best compromise between increased horn loading at f3 and the straightest curve between F1 and F5. One solution is to place the speakers flush against the back wall. One pipe with its unfinished speaker mounting baffle and port baffle set in place to check fit. It should be vertical to the front panel and coincide with the speaker axis. Instead of a smart talk, here are measurements of different stuffing strategies. Put a 1.5mH iron core inductor in parallel with a 5 ohm resistor in series with driver. Maybe in the future, I might rebuild it as a television stand, which would allow for the tube to follow the original plan much more closely. I had my eye (but not my wallet) on a pair of $2400, polished aluminum D2-al2's from O'heocha Design, but decided to build a simple Voigt pipe instead. The Voigt Pipes let it all out, loose and open almost boastful, creating with ease the impression of the hall the music was recorded in. For so little outlay and so little trouble to make these have got to be worth trying out for yourself if for no other reason other than curiosity and keeping you entertained for the weekend. I think these equations are for a fully stuffed pipe, because mine seems to drop off around 55Hz, and it's about 60% stuffed. was out. I'm not sure this is worthwhile and may take it out if I do a plywood version some day. I will build the next ones for a friend of 3/4" Baltic birch ply. Add to that the fact that my basement seemed to be filling up over the past few years with completed amp projects the COMBINED power of which couldn't light up a small cell: I now have 2 under 6W amplifiers and 2 more which can put out 15 Watts.......downhill.......with the wind at their back. The same theory was applied to the stuffing; fiberglass insulation is cheap and available at Home Depot. Fill, sand, spray, repeat. I've ended up naming the speakers LP #9's ... because what could go better with S.E.X. Check the alignment of the back and side at the middle. They are adequate to provide pressure to the joint while the glue sets, but that's all. Thanks Steve L. for the bondo suggestion. The Voigt pipes stand 72" tall and use Fostex FE166E drivers. I figured that the rear firing tweeter would help soften the highs from the whizzer cones too. Build a ported box, sealed box for your low-frequency speaker. Finally, the cabinet is lightly stuffed with polyfill, from the top down to just below the level of the driver. This is what works for me - that is all I can say! Needless to say, I've been looking for a simple, high-sensitivity, low anxiety full range project for quite a while since foolishly selling the Diatones, and after speaking to Jonathan, was convinced that the Voigt pipe might be a good way to go. This is then wrapped around the space between the two cones and with careful teasing and intertwining of the fibers through each other, can be made to stay in place. I did feel however that the Voigt Pipe would benefit from the same pressure screw arrangement as found in the box design and after installation we noted improvement of control in the low frequency end. They can be built of Baltic birch veneer plywood with mdf trim, as shown here, for less than $250. The concept is that the sound emitted from the rear of the loudspeaker driver is progressively reflected and absorbed along the length of the tapering tube, almost completely preventing internally reflected sound being re-transmitted through the cone of the loudspeaker. Only the back panel needs to be finished on two edges. Cut the sides from a single piece of shelving. Mark the length of a side, The mark the top and bottom width and draw a cut line. The cabinet is a rear vent bass reflex design. Here you'll find an explanation about the Voight-Pipe's design (also called a TQWT or Tapered Quarter Wavelength Tube design). The cabinet is now complete. I don't want any visible screws so I'm using 3/4" stringers to glue the sides to the front and back. I like the look ... although I suspect there would be more bass if the speaker was sitting on the floor. 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